- Object type
- Place Associated
Scotland, Renfrewshire, Johnstone Castle (place of use)
hem circumference: 2720 mm; neck to hem: 640 mm; waist: 740 mm
Woman's jacket, caraco plisse or petenlair in white linen tabby weave cord quilted in a pattern of flowers and foliage inside roundels.
Open bodice with square neckline, pleated robings and compere fronts fastening at centre front with four hooks and eyes (probably added at a later date) at top but remainder of length without fastening. Sack back falling from two double box pleats at top with side panels fitted into waist. Elbow-length sleeves with wide pleated into sleeve end and turned back cuff. Lined with a coarser weave linen.
A caraco plisse or petenlair was a type of bodice that was popular in the mid to late-18th century. It was constructed similar to the sack-back gowns or robes à la Française of the period. A ‘Hymn to Fashion’ published in the Gentlemen’s Magazine for August 1751 includes the couplet, ‘Inspir’d by thee, thy skilful engineer Lopp’d half the sack and form’d the pet-en-l’air’.
This example is made from cord-quilted linen whereby two layers of cloth are stitched together with a pattern worked in two parallel lines through which a narrow cord is threaded. During the 1700s this material was a popular choice for summer clothing.
Worn by Mary McDowall, the wife of George Houston.
- Credit Line/Donor
Gifted by Mrs Anne D Houston, 1932
- ID Number
- Related People
Mary Mcdowall owner, wearer