Details

Object type

coat; pelisse

Date

circa 1805-1810

Materials

silk, hand-stitched

Dimensions

bust: 760 mm; collar to hem: 1520 mm; footprint: 600 mm x 600 mm

Description

Woman's coat or pelisse in blue-green and yellow shot twill weave silk. High standing collar with double braid of pleated ruching in a chevron pattern. Turned back pointed lapels at front revealing pelisse lining of blue-green silk satin. Unfitted crossover fronts. Full-length sleeves. High waistline with self-material belt attached centre back with ties inside. Full-length gored panel skirt with fullness gathered into centre back.

Ladies’ coats during this period were often called pelisses. They were initially named after the fur-lined jackets worn by soldiers during the early Napoleonic wars, and could have fur-linings and military-style braid decoration. However, the term was soon applied to all fashionable coats.

This example is made in green silk that is shot with yellow vertical warp threads that produce a wonderful colour effect in the light. The silhouette of coats at this period followed the fashionable neoclassical line of dresses. The raised waistline could cause problems for dressmakers when attempting to cover the bust. The solution here is unfitted cross-over fronts with turned back lapels that could be arranged and pinned in place by the wearer.

It is similar in cut and construction to a red and blue shot silk ankle-length pelisse in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, (T.24-1946), especially the collar and bodice.

Credit Line/Donor

Museum Purchase, 1977

ID Number

E.1977.1

Location

Kelvingrove Scottish Identity