British Imperialism and its Legacies: Cross-Cultural Design Influences on Textiles and Dress

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Glasgow Museums has a collection of items in European Dress and Textiles, and World Cultures, that show cross-cultural design influences.

For centuries, as countries traded with, invaded and conquered each other, textile designs and dress styles have been shared, provided influence and inspiration, or been mis-appropriated. In the early Middle Ages Arabic designs spread around the Mediterranean resulting in patterns, such as addorsed (placed back to back) parrots, and techniques, including blackwork, being used on European textiles and dress.

Hand-printed cotton palampores (bed covers) made in India, particularly along the Coromandel coast, were exported first to Asia and, by the late 1700s, to Europe. As a result, they often incorporated both British and Chinese influences into their designs. These in turn inspired the designs of British crewel work, with many hangings embroidered with Indian-style Tree of Life designs, and several incorporating elements, such as figures and flowers, taken from Middle Eastern and Chinese art and textiles.

During the 1700s Chinoiserie designs, based on imported Chinese goods but executed by Europeans who often misconstrued elements, became popular for textiles and accessories such as fans. Indonesian ikat textiles, with their warp-printed threads, lead to the creation of French chine silks in the mid 1700s. In the late 1800s, after Japan had been forced to open to foreign markets, European Japonisme-designed textiles and dress borrowed from Japanese items, often resulting in hybrid garments that followed the cut and construction from one culture, but were decorated using techniques and designs from the other.

Broader term

British Imperialism and its Legacies: Textiles & Fashion Industry